Page 19: “Sovereign Of The Seas” Part II – The Rudder, Quarter Galleries And Gunports
Then, cut off one end of the pin flush with the edge of the fitting, and allow about 1/8 in. of the pin to project beyond the opposite edge. These pin fittings are to be attached to the rudder. The other seven, with open eyelets, are fastened in the notches on the sternpost. Place the respective fittings over the rudder first with the pins down. One at a time, clamp each fitting in place and, with a No. 70 pin drill or a needle ground flat at one end, pierce a hole entirely through the metal and wood. Press a lill though the hole, and solder on each side. For the smoothest job, have your iron very hot so that the solder will flow around the pin freely. Then cut off the pin close to the fitting and file flush. Attach the sternpost fittings the same way. With the point of a knife, you can slot the full on each side of the sternpost in line with the fittings so that their forward ends can be inserted slightly before pinning and soldering in place. This will make them more secure and strong to take any strains when the rudder is swung from side to side.
With the rudder completed and fittings in place, you will now hang the former. Line up a 3/16-in. drill along the vertical center of the sternpost and drill a hole straight up into the overhanging curve of No. 5 hull lift. The hole may be about 1 in. deep. Press the rounded upper section of the rudder fitting pins clear the tops of the sternpost-fitting eyelets. Then, swing the rudder forward so that pins and eyelets are in line, and pull the rudder downward with the pins through the eyelets. Bend the pins slightly below the eyelets so that the rudder cannot move upward. Last, trim off the bottom edge of the rudder on a line with the keel. This completes the rudder assembly.
Making Deadeyes for Ship Models
One of the jobs that daunts the amateur ship modeler is the making of the numerous deadeyes required for the standing rigging. With a couple of simple tools, however, the job can be robbed of its terrors, and enough deadeyes for the average ship can be made in a single evening.
The first tool is made of a short length of 1/4-in. drill rod; a 3/16-in. hole is drilled along the axis, as shown in Fig. 1, and the end is then ground to the shape shown, and sharpened to a good edge on the oilstone. The deadeyes are made of boxwood, old scales or rules providing the material, and they are marked on the wood, as indicated in Fig.2, using a light hammer to outline the circles will the tool. The next step is to drill the holes for the lanyards, and, in doing this, be sure to lay out and drill the holes as shown in Fig. 4. The tool is now mounted in the brace or hand drill and the deadeyes cut out.
The next tool is a short length of 3/16-in. dowel stock, Fig.3 into the end of which has been driven three bank pins, spaced so as to fit the holes in the deadeyes, and cut off so that they do not project through the latter. With a deadeye mounted on the end of this tool it is easy to sand the curve on the face and to cut the groove around the edge, using a rat-tail or a triangular file for the latter operation. – L. E. Davis, Syracuse, N.Y.
Waxing Model-Ship Cordage
When ordinary beeswax is applied to model-ship cordage, it tends to leave small flakes on the cord fibers which gives them a roughened appearance, besides catching and holding dust. A good method of applying the wax, is to rub it on the cord in the usual way and then pass the cord quickly over a flame. In this way the wax melts into the fibers, stiffening the cord, and giving it a smooth ship-shape look.
