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All parts indicated as antique brown, Fig. 68, are given two coats. Note that the sunken surfaces of all panel carvings take this color, which, if carefully applied, may be used to sharpen the edges of the gilded portions. The black and white paints are handled in the same way, two coats being used for each. If a semi-antique effect is desired, merely leave the paint finish exposed, and atmospheric conditions will, in time, soften the colors. If a soft gloss is wanted, a thin, clear varnish coat may be applied and carefully rubbed down with rottenstone.
For gold-burnishing the raised portions of the carvings, you will need a small can of gilders' clay and a small sheet of rabbit-skin glue. To prepare the clay, soak a piece of glue in water for a couple of hours, until it becomes soft. Then put the glue in a metal dish with warm water and heat until the glue has been entirely dissolved. Enough of the clay is then added until a thick, creamy mixture is obtained. The surfaces to be gilded are first given a coat of thinned-out shellac, which is allowed to dry, and then the clay mixture, just described, is applied with a camel's-hair brush. The fine gold bronze is next mixed with a little alcohol, and the mixture is then poured into another dish of thin glue water, after which it is applied to the raised portions of the carvings. Burnishing is later done by gently rubbing a smooth, rounded metal surface, such as the handle of a small spoon, over the gilded portions.
Die for Forming Model-Ship Deadeyes and Capstans
Deadeyes and capstans can easily be made by using a die cut from brass or similar material, and stamping them out of hard rubber or old phonograph records. Heat the die and the rubber in boiling water, which softens the latter so that it can be cut more easily. The die may be conveniently used by making the parts in the form of a hinge, and applying pressure in an arbor-press or vise. This method is useful also for making other small articles of this nature.
Copyright, © 1933, by Popular Mechanics Company
