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Divide the space to the left of the zero mark into twelve equal spaces, which will each represent 1 in. Marks for the half inches should be omitted, as this fraction can easily be estimated, and the marks will only make the scale hard to read. Now, the dimensions of the original drawing are read on the 1/4-in. scale, and those of the new model laid out with the 3/4-in. one.
Ship-Model Kinks
Sandpaper, in addition to smoothing surfaces, is a splendid medium for reducing and shaping small objects that cannot be satisfactorily handled with ordinary tools. For instance, spars and masts, after being roughly formed with a block plane, may be quickly brought to size and shape by drawing them back and forth through a fold of sandpaper held in one hand, or rubbed with a sandpaper block. I have found small 1/2 and 1/4-in. pins excellent for fastening parts that are too small for the use of ordinary brads. They do not split the wood and have good holding power for their size. In driving larger pins, they are much less likely to bend is the shank of the pin is grasped firmly with the thumb and forefinger while they are being driven in. I tried to get round wooden toothpicks for belaying pins, but could only find the flat variety; I therefore used insulated copper wire of suitable size, removing the insulation. In making deadeyes from black-celluloid knitting needles, I used a small miter box and a small back-saw. I first cut the groove for the end of the shroud, the thumb and finger forming a shoulder to keep the needle in the proper position. The needle is revolved while the groove is being cut, and is then cut off to the desired size. The deadeyes are placed in a small vise while the holes for the lanyards are made with a fine hand drill. By this method I made all the deadeyes for the "Halve Maen" in two hours. - F.G. Semple, Ottawa, Can.
Making Cordage for Model Ships
Cordage of exactly the right size for rigging on model ships is not always available, but can readily be made in the following manner: Get some thread heavy enough to represent the individual strands of the rope to be made. Double it several times, keeping the total length greater than needed for the finished rope, then tie a knot at each end to hold the strands together, and apply beeswax. Now insert a coarse crocheting hook in the chuck of a small hand drill and catch the hook through the loops at one end. Similarly loop the opposite end of the strand over a small hook or nail driven into the wall. Turn the drill so that the threads will be twisted to form a rope of the desired diameter. Grasp both ends of the rope while thus twisted and quickly pass it through a gas or candle flame, thereby melting the wax, which permeates the threads and cements them together.
Wire Rigging for Ship Models
Copper-wire shrouds simplify the work of rigging ship models and give a more realistic effect than tied threads. The shrouds and ratlines are drawn to scale on a board, allowing extra length for attachment to the model. A brad is driven into the board at the lower end of each penciled shroud line, and at the top where they join. The wire is stretched over each of the lines and wrapped around the brads. The ratline wires are then soldered across the shroud wires over the pencil lines. A hot iron will keep the solder from beading at the joints, and though the heat expands and loosens the wires, they will draw tight after cooling. When completed, the shroud is removed from the board and fastened in place on the model. Each ratline wire should be bent between the shroud wires to represent a slight sag, after which the assembly is given a coat of dark-brown paint.
Copyright, © 1933, by Popular Mechanics Company
