Helpful Hints for Ship Model Builders

Fiber also may be used for rails and skylights, but in the heavier sizes it may be necessary to cut out the square holes of a skylight with a small drill, later finishing it smooth with a file. Windows may be made from old camera film, washed clean of emulsion.

On many of the old-time frigates, line-of-battle ships and other war vessels, the after side of each top was arranged with a small rail which was put there to keep the sharpshooters from falling overboard or to the deck. (See Fig.4.) These rails quite often had a fine-mesh rope screen woven into them, and in making a small model, it is extremely difficult to do this. However, the difficulty has been solved by procuring some of the extremely fine copper or brass screenings used in making and repairing gasoline filters on automobiles. A framework should be made of light copper wire and the screening fastened to it by sewing with fine thread or copper wire.

The same copper screening may be used for the hammock berthing along the main rail of most of these old naval-ship models, this screening also being supported by wire uprights set at appropriate distances.

More than half the charm of a ship model lies in the accuracy of the work, and in this respect it is essential that the rigging be of proper sizes. The stays of the various masts will usually be of the heaviest material, the lower shrouds of the next heaviest and the upper rigging somewhat lighter. The running rigging will be the lightest of all.

Since suitable cord is sometimes hard to get in the right sizes, it is somewhat easier to make up material which will be suitable by winding together several smaller cords to make one large "rope." This may be done by measuring the approximate distance that the line is to go and then allowing a few inches at each end for fastening. Take several such pieces and tie them to the workbench or fasten them in a vise (see Fig. 5) and then place the other ends in the chuck of a small hand drill, turning the handle toward you and winding until the different cords are securely twisted together. However, do not wind too tightly or the cord will be greatly shortened.

Such rigging must be kept tight or it will untwist and small clamps may be secured to each end until it is time to use it. A better and much more satisfactory way is to make up the rigging only as needed and then keep it taut until it is securely in place on the model.

One of the tedious jobs in completing an old-fashioned ship model is in the making and finishing of the many guns necessary. The guns themselves may be cast of lead or solder or, better yet, turned from hardwood on a small lathe. In the latter case, the material should be finished smooth and then painted either with bronze or black paint, depending upon the period of the ship.

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Copyright, © 1933, by Popular Mechanics Company